First process in determining whether or not a wheel can make this “cut” is the inner bore. We first inspect the inner bore using a digital inspection scope. Only wheels with flawless inner bores are used for this wheel set. Because of this quality control, only 2 out of 10 wheels will meet this requirement. EVEN the BIG NAMED wheels do not have this type of quality. This ensures you have the best possible wheel to start with. There is no need in doing all the following modifications if your wheel fails at this requirement.First two pictures are of wheels that did not meet our standards. Many wheels have this void straight from factory which causes unknown wheel travel, binding, and wobble.

Derby Dust Asset Wheels have inner hub free of voids.

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Next step is to make a uniformed, flat tread as addressed by most packs. Mold marks are removed while retaining near full tread/beaded edges. Outer wheel diameter will always be 1.170 or greater because of our machining process. Milled using CNC lathes makes the treads nearly identical to factory casting. We have a dedicated lathe for this process. The axis is fixed and never moves. What this means is that all wheels that we produce have the most consistent repeatability that we can offer. There is no other way to do this. We can control all the variables By doing so, rough edges are not present on our wheel tread.

Compare the outer treads of these three wheels. First is stock, the second is the leading aftermarket seller, the last is ours. Even the most expensive aftermarket wheels have this tell-tale sign. With that in mind, we figured out a way to machine our tread to near identical to uncut wheels.

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Next is to make sure the flawless hub is true in diameter. We ream the inner diameter to a true bore size to make sure there is a uniformed inner diameter. Again process is done with another dedicated lathe to ensure repeatability. It does nothing else.

We do not reduce the width of the wheel. Since most packs do not allow this modification. Most are very descriptive about this modification.

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We do not “true” the edges as that changes the width of the wheel which makes it illegal according to 90% of the pack rules.

We do not modify the inner hub portion that is closest to the body. Since we do not reduce the width of the wheel, there is no need to trim this area to make it appear to have the same gap.

 

Outer hub is modified. As per most packs rules, they allow this modification by addressing it. Or do not address it as a violation of rules to modify this area.

 

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 Increased outer hub diameter. We increase the diameter of the hub by 0.0015 inches. This decreases the outer axle hub rub/friction. By opening up this area, this modification allows the wheel to travel in a more true circular motion around the axle verses an elliptical rotation. Better, more true rotation of the wheel because the head of the axle will not rub while during rotation.
Outer hub is retained. Per pack rules derby graphite
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wheels for pinewood derby cars		 Beveled outer hub. This modification decreases friction (Red area in picture). We have chosen to have a wider point of contact between your axle and wheel. We feel the larger outer ring provides a more stable wheel travel when compared to just a rounded hub as most aftermarket wheels utilize. This helps the first time builders get the most speed and tuning out of their wheels. We also find that it eliminates most wheel wobble when installed on a 1.5-2 degree negative canter.We also find that this type of profile allows for a larger area of graphite reserves (green area in picture). Why not store more lube for the upcoming races?
    OTHER THINGS ABOUT OUR WHEELS

  • Wheel retains all of the lettering and numbering inside and out
  • Lighter Wheel weight than stock BSA wheels, decreasing rotational inertia, thus allowing quicker starts and overall times. However, not so light that is noticeable. Every thousand of a gram counts!
  • Can be run as is, or polished with Novus/plastic polish to remove micro scratches. You choose!
Derby Dust Polishing Kit / ServiceSimple, no smoke and mirrors. No inflated costs. Guaranteed results. You can hear and see the difference. Increases speed, decreases overall time on my track around .01-.015 seconds on 30.75 feet measuring distance. Definitely a major difference.

Polishing removes all the micro scratches from the manufacturing and machining process of this wheel. By doing so, you make faster wheel with less friction. Do it yourself, or we can do it for you for a little less than the price of the kit.

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Lastly our wheel set that is not mold number matched. After all, the odds of getting all four matching wheel molds are not in your favor. That is the very first thing our judges look at to determine if aftermarket wheels are purchased. They do not even have to pull wheels to look. WE OFFER MATCH MOLDS if that is something you are interested in. Just click the option. #4,6,12,16 molds are never used.

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And just for general knowledge. These parts (wheels) cost about .02 to make (if even that) . I don’t make them. And I am more than positive, there is no real quality control other than does it look right. We do our best to make them better than what they come out. Just remember that the wheels never begin with good quality control. They are NOT perfect, and never will be. They are not machined from solid plastic, they are injection molded. No matter what modifications are done to them, they are not precision wheels. You have to accept that. If your expectations are greater than that, I ask that you go and visit the location where these are made and watch them being made for an hour. See who is making them and watch the quality control process. We do our best to make them fast!